Once upon a time, probably about 5 years ago, it was a real torment for me to online embroidery digitizing on stretch velvet. As I remember now, every piece of this wonderful fabric was given to me by blood. Especially considering that no stabilizers were used on the bottom of this tricky fabric, but only a water-soluble film on top was used. And it turned out that in the process of hooking the fabric could be stretched strongly in order to achieve a tight tension. And it stretches very well, like a jersey. Yes, in essence, this is knitwear – if you turn this velvet on the wrong side, you can see knitted knitted loops:
And as a result, after removing the finished embroidery, everything went in waves, both fabric and embroidery. Guard.
And only now it dawned on me when I started experimenting with stabilizers and different types of fabrics – such fabrics need to be glued onto the stabilizer. Let the thinnest tear-off, but you will get an excellent result. And also the fact that this fabric cannot be treated likes velvet when you create an embroidery design for it.
In general, it turns out that:
- Knitted velvet must be glued so as not to overtighten it in the wheel. There may be gluing options:
- Glue onto the sealed Filmoplast. Do not forget that Filmoplast itself is not a bad stabilizer, it is, in fact, only an auxiliary sealing tool, and the most time needed to put a layer of stabilizer under it is. For example, tear-off.
- Glue the hot melt glue stabilizer to the velvet and hoop it all together. But to test for a start, whether there will be traces and weasels from the hoop.
- Hoop a tear-off stabilizer (not thin) into the hoop and glue the velvet to it with temporary fixing glue.
As an aid, you can use additional stitching around the perimeter of the embroidery so that the velvet does not come off the base.
- Threads for embroidery can be very diverse both in the composition of raw materials and in thickness.
- Well, the needles need to be used with the most standard SES type. The thickness will have to be selected depending on the thickness of the thread.
And the recommendations for digitizing will be somewhat similar to knitwear, and in something to ordinary velvet. Such a mixture:
- It is better to choose a design that will have open spaces in it. This will help preserve the drape of the fabric and the embroidery itself.
- Avoid small details, especially those embroidered with a simple stitch – they will sink in the pile and you will have to pull the film out from under them.
- Avoid overlays, large in area, clogged with stitches – there is no stability in gluing the fabric to the paper, the fabric will begin to peel off, the embroidery will deform. So, it is necessary to replace these covers with something more economical, such as appliqué or motive fillings, made not with a line, but with large satin elements.
- Gimp stitches are the most common ones, corresponding to the size of the element and the length of the stitches. For satins, this will most likely be zigzags, for fills – a lattice or full lattice.
- Reduce the density of the final fills and satins to the possible minimum – that is, we begin to select from a value of 0.45 mm.
- To prevent the pile from showing through the sparse stitches, work with the density and stitch lengths of the frame layer. It will be necessary to increase the length of the frame stitches to at least 3-5mm.
- Increase the retraction compensation value as compared to the one normally used.
Here, in principle, are all the basic concepts that may help someone to make embroidery on knitted velvet.